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Let’s take a look on the Longines Report Chronograph. You’d be forgiven if you happen to forgot, however Longines was one of many absolute kings of chronographs again within the day. As such, when the model does a brand new one, it’s like Lancia constructing a brand new road-legal rally automobile. You count on a mud-slinging beast of a automobile with a bonkers design — a Stratos or a Delta Integrale. However I’d be scared that fashionable rules, market evaluation, extreme layers of administration inside the group, and “design by committee” would end in a boring, lifeless, and overweight dilution of a rally automobile. So what do now we have right here? A revival of what made Longines nice in its heyday or a bloated household hatchback of a watch?
You may really feel that I’m setting the bar a bit excessive for this Longines Report Chronograph. However to be honest, it was Longines itself that set that normal. Since this chrono unapologetically harkens again to the model’s heritage, we could have to begin with a little bit of historical past.
Longines chronographs
Let me take you again to the early twentieth century. At the moment, Longines is considered one of Switzerland’s prime watchmakers. The home even develops its very personal chronograph calibers. The result’s the 13.33Z caliber and later the 13ZN, each absolute beauties. In reality, Longines was proper there among the many very first to develop devoted chronograph actions for wristwatches. As you possibly can think about, the miniaturization concerned required an intensive redesign of the expertise of the day. Do not forget that that is a long time earlier than computer-aided design and even the mass manufacturing of components.
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- Longines ref. 5699 — Picture courtesy of Bulang and Sons
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- Longines caliber 13ZN — Picture courtesy of Bulang and Sons
Longines fitted its spectacular calibers in equally spectacular watches. One can find examples in metal and gold circumstances measuring between 34 and 38mm. A bunch of dial variations had been produced, amongst which had been beautiful enamel and gilt examples.
Longines launched the brand new 13ZN caliber in 1947. This remained in manufacturing till the early Seventies. Once more, you can find a flurry of incredible watches housing this motion. The theme remained the identical from the Nineteen Twenties till the Seventies — true in-house, stunning chronograph actions, fitted in critically fashionable watches.
Does the Longines Report Chronograph proceed the legacy?
Okay, so that’s the background towards which now we have to view this present Longines Report Chronograph. Simply as Lancia constructed awe-inspiring, genre-defining rally vehicles, so did Longines reign supreme within the chronograph enterprise.
The query is: does this new chronograph reside as much as its personal heritage? Earlier than I sink my enamel into the main points, the easy reply is not any. The Longines Report Chronograph is an honest watch. I’d not criticize anyone for selecting one. It’s well-made and appears fairly good. However it doesn’t really feel just like the evolution of the 13.33Z, 13ZN, and 13CH watches of yesteryear. I’m afraid this has develop into extra of a middle-of-the-road hatchback than a Delta Integrale.
This is smart, contemplating how Longines is positioned to cowl a particular market section. Inside that section, a classical design and a rigorously chosen worth level are extra necessary than horological prowess. And I’m afraid that reveals on this watch.
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Specs of the Longines Report Chronograph
What now we have here’s a 40mm metal computerized chronograph. It comes with a black dial with gold printing and utilized gold-tone options. There’s a model on a cognac leather-based strap in addition to a model on a metal bracelet to select from. I had the one with the leather-based strap in for evaluation, so I can’t communicate to the standard of the bracelet. The leather-based strap is of fine high quality, however I’d swap it for one thing a bit softer if it had been my watch.
The case has a lug-to-lug size of simply over 49mm. The peak is 13.8mm, partly attributable to a domed sapphire crystal with an anti-reflective coating on each side. The lug width is a crowd-pleasing 20mm. If you happen to have a look at the aspect profile of the watch, you will notice that the pushers and the crown are usually not aligned. That is because of the modular nature of the motion inside.
Longines opted for the chronometer-rated caliber L895. It is a Longines-exclusive adaptation of a base ETA A31.L01, which is certainly a time-only caliber. The chronograph is a separate module on prime, explaining the excessive positioning of the pushers in relation to the crown. The motion is COSC-certified, therefore the “Chronometer” signing at six.
The dial — “gilty” as charged
There is only one dial model, which is clearly impressed by previous gilt dials. A matte black floor is adorned with gold printing, shiny utilized gold-tone Arabic numerals, and a elegant gold-tone handset. And that is problematic since readability is horrible. I discovered myself having to tilt my wrist to search out the best gentle. On the mistaken angle, the palms seem black and visually disappear. There isn’t a lume, however that’s comprehensible in a classical design like this.
It’s onerous to correctly present in pictures, however the gold dial options usually seem fully black, rendering the time unreadable.
After all, this isn’t really a gilt dial. These dials had been made by making use of the dial printing in clear lacquer to a clean brass dial. All the dial was then electro-plated in black. Because the clear lacquer was non-conductive, it could stay clear. The printing was, then, uncovered brass in black lacquer. Underneath magnification, you’d see the textual content was decrease than the encompassing black. The dial we see right here is black with gold-colored printing on prime of it.
True gilt dials are sought-after immediately. The method is much more time-consuming than simply printing in gold-tone paint. A significant added good thing about the previous manner is that the textual content really has a metallic shimmer. This ends in an ideal match between the printing and the gold palms and utilized options. That’s not the case right here. In the best gentle, as Gerard has professionally supplied whereas doing images of this watch, it appears good. Underneath altering gentle, nonetheless, the tachymeter can look virtually mustard-toned, not matching the remainder of the dial.
Carrying the Longines Report Chronograph
I’ve spent a few days sporting the Longines Report Chronograph. I do know a few of you’ll roll your eyes, however I can’t get used to the dimensions. To me, a chronograph with such a classic aesthetic simply appears unusual at 40 × 49 × 13.8mm. It sacrifices its magnificence and, frankly, is a bit cumbersome to put on. Nonetheless, many greater manufacturers are inclined to launch watches like this in a 42mm diameter, so that is comparatively good. Yeah, I’m you, Tissot! And granted, the Report doesn’t look outsized on a median wrist.
I’d fortunately commerce the rotor for a thinner profile. These legendary Longines chronographs I discussed earlier had been all hand-wound. I feel that will have been completely nice for a vintage-style chronograph — preferable to a thick case, in reality. No matter the kind of winding, I’m certain the chronograph module additionally ends in a thicker profile than an built-in chronograph would have.
It may not sound prefer it, however I did get pleasure from sporting the Longines Report Chronograph. The watch has numerous old-world appeal due to the black and gold dial. It’s a watch with a definite model, and I can certainly think about folks falling for it.
Closing ideas on the Longines Report Chronograph
I do really feel that Longines is slacking a bit on this watch, although. I’m not feeling that it is a labor of affection and devotion. Relatively, it is a product designed in a boardroom, not a watchmaker’s atelier. Longines has the dangerous luck that I lately dealt with the upcoming Lebois & Co chronographs. These exude a degree of consideration to element that indicators somebody has put numerous love into them. Longines will certainly promote much more of those, however, as a watch lover, I’d have the Lebois all day.
I hope it reveals that my criticism really comes from place. I need to see Longines win. A century in the past, the model was completely superb. I need to see it get again to that type. The Spirit assortment and the Large Eye chronograph present that Longines can do it from a design perspective. The Report Chronograph, nonetheless, just isn’t fairly up there. I’m afraid I should settle for that Longines chronographs now not include mesmeric in-house calibers. However in that case, a minimum of the design needs to be spot on.
What do you assume? Am I overly harsh? Or ought to Longines ditch the shareholder-first angle and try for horological perfection as soon as extra? Let me know within the feedback.
You may as well discover and comply with me on Instagram: @time_travelers_journal
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