Mechanical Watches

One Month With My Seiko SPB317J1 —The Excellent Summer time Watch I Did not Know I Was Ready For

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I’ll be sincere with you: when the Seiko SPB317J1 arrived at Fratello HQ for a primary impression, I didn’t even understand it was a re-edition. What I did know, nevertheless, was that it might very nicely be my subsequent Seiko diver. I used to be really wanting on the SPB151J1 “Captain Willard” re-edition. However I at all times discovered the Willard case a bit too cumbersome for my wrist, irrespective of how massive or small it was. Once I noticed the SPB317J1’s slender C-shaped case together with the marginally smaller bezel and the brief lug-to-lug, I virtually ordered the watch with out even making an attempt it first. Now that I’ve owned it for a few month, I can let you know if it lived as much as my excessive expectations!

As I stated, I wasn’t actually conscious of the 1968 Seiko 6105-8000 till I used to be doing analysis for the introduction article for the SPB317J1 and its siblings. What I used to be conscious of was the present Seiko Prospex lineup, from which I’ve owned the SPB143J1. It’s a reinterpretation of the 62MAS with an attractive brushed metal bezel and a comfortable grey sunburst dial. In diameter, it’s really half a millimeter smaller than the SPB317J1. In my opinion, nevertheless, it wears quite a bit bulkier resulting from its skin-diver design and the truth that the bezel reaches all the way in which to the edges of the case. As well as, it has thickness of 13.2mm, which the brand new SPB317J1 undercuts by virtually a full millimeter at 12.3mm. I don’t find out about you, however for me, this new re-edition hits the candy spot!

The search for a extra inexpensive diver

Once I offered my Seiko SPB143J1 and my Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight, the one diver left in my assortment was the 38mm Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe. And whereas I completely agree with individuals who say that you must simply put on your watches, I nonetheless thought it will be a good suggestion to search for a extra inexpensive diver to spend my summer time holidays with. I just lately pre-ordered the blue Serica 5303-3, however that received’t arrive till after summer time. Due to this fact, the hunt was on to discover a good diver to deliver on my summer time holidays. After which, identical to that, at first of June, Seiko launched the SPB317J1. It was love at first sight.

There’s one thing very reassuring concerning the traditional Seiko diver design — a matte black dial and a black aluminum bezel inlay mixed with silver and white detailing. It’s all put collectively in a really simple manner, nevertheless it works oh so nicely! The reinterpretation of the ’60s 6105-8000 lacks the elegant utilized brand and the attractive date window at 3 o’clock. It additionally makes use of extra rectangular hour markers (most likely to higher combine the date at four-thirty). Nonetheless, I very very similar to what Seiko did right here. And ever since I spotted that the Prospex brand consists of a unusual “P” and “S”, I don’t even thoughts Seiko placing it on the dial anymore. For those who do, I assume you’ll be able to at all times go classic. However in that case, you’ll be able to overlook about it being a nonchalant summer-vacation piece. And that was precisely what I used to be in search of.

The proper pointless summer time dive watch

I really have already got a quartz Squale 1515 in my assortment. I purchased it expressly for the aim of being my go-to summer time diver. Or, let’s say, my seaside and swimming pool watch as a result of after getting my diving license about 20 years in the past, I haven’t even used it as soon as. The 36mm Squale diver is nice as a result of it’s small and light-weight, however there’s one thing about it that places me off. I’d hate to say that it’s due to the quartz coronary heart beating inside, however truthfully, I sort of assume it’s. It feels bizarre to put on mechanical watches all 12 months spherical after which all of a sudden not accomplish that throughout summer time.

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I caught myself not sporting it as a result of it simply didn’t really feel proper. I do know holidays are all about forgetting about what time it’s, so why even put on a watch? However identical to you, I assume, I’m a bizarre watch fanatic, and for some cause, I wish to put on a watch always. That’s why I’m now sporting my Seiko SPB317J1 whereas tenting in Catalonia, Spain. I’m surrounded by individuals who aren’t even sporting a watch. If they’re, it’s usually an Apple Watch, with which they’ll even make telephone calls whereas swimming within the sea. I do know my Seiko can’t do something like that, however I nonetheless felt so excited the opposite day when somebody on the pool requested me what time it was.

Made to measure

The very first thing I did after I took the be careful of the field was take away its proprietary black silicone strap. Not solely do I virtually by no means put on a watch on a black strap, however that strap, particularly, can also be fairly thick and lengthy. However there’s nothing to fret about right here. The lug holes make it a breeze to swap straps, and the Seiko SPB317J1 is a watch that appears good on many alternative choices. I actually wish to put on it on a sand-colored tropic, however I’m additionally a fan of this grey NATO. Although double-pass NATOs are virtually by no means my choice, with the 317’s slim case, the added thickness of the strap is quite a bit much less of a difficulty. It’s additionally shocking how nicely this 41mm case matches my 17cm wrist.

Apart from my Speedmaster Skilled, I normally put on watches nicely below 40mm. However due to the Seiko’s modest lug-to-lug measurement of 46.9mm, it by no means feels as massive as its diameter would recommend. That’s additionally aided by the marginally smaller 40mm bezel, which angles inward a bit because it approaches the crystal. Surrounding the bezel, you see the elegant C-shaped case. It’s related in form to a Doxa SUB 300 that I just lately tried on. The case of the SPB317J1, nevertheless, isn’t as vast and awkward as that of the Doxa. I wasn’t a fan of the SUB 300’s straight-ended lugs. On the Seiko, the lugs are extra pointed and really feel extra pure. The totally brushed case additionally curves properly round my wrist. It virtually seems like the entire thing was made to measure!

The best value level?

What I additionally actually like is that massive, fats crown simply previous the 4 o’clock. At that place, it by no means digs into my wrist and stays safely nestled into the aspect of the case. That stated, the crown continues to be very accessible when winding the watch or setting the time. It will’ve been good if it had been signed with an enormous “S” or a easy “Seiko”, however the clean crown additionally seems sort of toolish. With it, one can function the 6R35 motion contained in the SPB317J1.

Mine runs at +15 seconds per day, which, truthfully, isn’t very correct. Nevertheless it’s nicely inside Seiko’s personal specs of between +25/-15 seconds per day. I normally rotate my watches every day, so it’s nothing to fret about for me. And on my summer time holidays, I don’t actually thoughts that it runs somewhat quick. Though, for a watch that prices almost €1K, I believe you may anticipate somewhat higher accuracy. One thing that does work fairly nicely, nevertheless, is the bezel.

The bezel motion is similar to what I skilled on my SPB143J1. There’s this clean feeling if you flip it all through its 120 clicks. It’s definitely not too clean, and the press motion is reassuring sufficient. The insert is barely misaligned, although. That doesn’t actually trouble me, and it has virtually began to turn into Seiko’s trademark. However once more, it’s one thing that shouldn’t be anticipated on a watch that prices €950.

Closing ideas

All in all, I’m nonetheless very proud of my Seiko SPB317J1. Aside from the above criticisms, it’s a really sturdy watch. It’s precisely the sort of software watch that I used to be in search of this summer time. And that’s additionally as a result of it feels just like the watch enjoys being taken for a spin, be it within the pool, within the sea, or constructing sand castles on the seashore. I may definitely think about myself sporting this with a pleasant NATO on a chilly winter’s day. For the approaching weeks, it’ll be my day by day d(r)iver for the remainder of our keep in Spain. Let’s see what that hard-coated metal case will appear like after that. One factor is for certain: I’m actually pleased that I made this one mine!

What do you consider the Seiko SPB317J1? Is that this additionally your favourite among the many traditional re-editions? Let me know within the feedback beneath!

For those who’d wish to see extra wrist pictures with the SPB317J1, you may also discover and comply with me on Instagram @fliptheparrot

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