Mechanical Watches

Arms-On With The Bohen Mille Mer Dive Watch — Water Resistant To 1,000 Meters

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Making your mark in an overcrowded nook of any market is difficult work. It takes imaginative and prescient. It takes tenacity. And maybe greater than something, it takes an unshakable perception in your message and that your goal demographic will latch onto it and carry it residence in your behalf. Throughout any endeavor of this nature, you’ll meet with robust resistance. You’ll meet with naysayers, detractors, rivals who could also be jealous. All of those individuals will inform you, “No, don’t do it — it’s a idiot’s errand.” In the event you make it via that gauntlet, you’ve acquired a shot at success. However does the Bohen Dive Watch have what it takes to make it over the road?

This has been an extended journey. Whereas it could sound odd to have a look at “missed” deadlines as a constructive factor, with regards to getting the product proper, they actually could be. And at the moment, the supply timelines of just about each model we work with are up within the air due to the continuing COVID-19 pandemic. Bohen, a small, first-time model that can dwell or die on the execution of its founder’s imaginative and prescient, is aware of that each one too properly. We’d initially deliberate to place this watch via its paces six months in the past till the manufacturing facility producing the mannequin’s end-links (critically) floor to a shuddering halt.

An essential resolution

At first, Bohen was torn. The model thought-about sending what it had already, however I suggested towards it. In instances passed by, we often reviewed crowd-funded manufacturers’ pre-production samples till I spotted that was completely lower than helpful for our viewers. A model can promise to make up for all recognized ills previous to launch (I imply, why wouldn’t they?), however in our place of duty, we’ve to have the ability to touch upon what is, reasonably than what would possibly be.

It sounds harsh, I do know. I’ve had many new model house owners wailing on me for this resolution. I stand by it, nonetheless. Too many instances, I’ve seen horror exhibits come to life on the again of deceptive or downright inaccurate opinions. I wasn’t going so as to add to that morass of inaccuracies, so right here we’re. We waited, and now I’ve the true deal on my wrist. What I see here’s what you’ll get. So let’s discover out if it deserves your hard-earned money.

The monkey on the again of the elephant within the room

You’ve acquired to like a busted idiom, proper? What do I imply by this “monkey on the again of the elephant within the room” nonsense? Effectively, the elephant within the room is the worth (€1,659) for a watch powered by a Soprod M1000 caliber. Now that’s a way more attention-grabbing caliber than a bog-standard Sellita however it doesn’t vault it into the following degree like one thing proprietary would. Bohen communicates this caliber as Soprod’s “anti-magnetic caliber”, which the model additional protects by wrapping in a mushy iron cage and shutting the case again.

The monkey on the again of that elephant is that regardless of this mannequin being a production-grade pattern, there’s little likelihood you’ll get to strive it on earlier than it launches to see if it’s value it regardless. So that you’ll have to only go together with your intestine a bit bit.

You understand my tackle these merchandise. There’s nothing essentially mistaken with that motion alternative assuming the correct quantity of capital has been poured into the case and bracelet execution, to not point out the overall aesthetic of the watch. Bohen claims that if this watch have been distributed via common retail channels it could command a value of €8,300. The cleanest and most direct instance I provide right here is Laventure. The early fashions from that model now look like a steal given how shortly it has grown within the estimation of these inside the trade and extra aware about what goes on behind the curtain. However there’s no denying that the rise in retail value raised the eyebrows of anybody wont to work with spec sheets alone.

Presently, there are 649 Laventure watches “in existence,” with the majority of the final 99 but to be delivered. Which means you’ve acquired a considerably higher likelihood of seeing one within the wild than you’ve got with this Bohen (which boasts a grand complete of two production-grade prototypes behind closed doorways). On condition that, I’m going to make use of the Laventure Sous-Marine as a baseline comparability to provide you an concept of how properly the Bohen Dive Watch actually stacks up towards its form of like-for-like competitors.

Design

Proper off the bat, I wish to handle the design codes employed by Bohen. That is an formidable watch. Honestly, it’s a hyper-aggressive watch. It is going to enchantment to fewer individuals than the Laventure (which borrows closely from well-established mannequin households, mixing a number of deferential references with fashion).

The Bohen reaches for one thing new. It tries to upend a cart stuffed with stale apples. Actually, it’s a laudable try and a worthy mission, as little or no in our trade can actually be thought-about “new”, as of late. However does it get away with it?

You understand what? I’m going to say that it does. I’ve little question it can break up opinion. I’m constructive if each the fashions I’m utilizing on this head-to-head comparability have been on normal launch with no limits hooked up to them that the Laventure would blow the Bohen away in pure gross sales numbers. However does the model actually care? Does Artya care that Omega outsells it? Does Akrivia cry into its cereal each morning as a result of it can by no means be as well-known, widely-loved, or as accessible as Patek Philippe? Heck, no. The punks and the rebels of this trade have a spot. And, for anybody who was questioning, it’s on the wrists of punks and rebels who by no means doused the fireplace inside.

Sharp edges

By no means assume that the outward chaos of a punk’s apparel smacks of laziness. The picture is simply as essential because the music. Watches like this are an ideal embodiment of that edgy counterculture many middle-aged luxurious watch patrons will discover related. Each component of the punk picture is designed to jar and elicit a powerful response. Maybe one in all revulsion. Maybe one in all concern. On this case, nonetheless, I consider it speaks to the curious purchaser that finds them drawn in by one thing so quintessentially completely different.

You’ve all seen the Submariner. I’m guessing in case you grasp round these pages typically sufficient, you’ve seen the Seamaster too. You understand what the common fare seems like. Perhaps, over time, you’ve satisfied your self that you simply prefer it greater than your coronary heart really does? I feel that’s occurred to me, once in a while. I don’t assume it’s true of any of the watches in my private assortment, fortunately, however I really feel myself softening to fashions I by no means “acquired” once I hear countless reward directed at them. This… that is one thing completely different. That a lot is evident from the get-go. However is it as well-executed as it’s well-conceived?

Precision

From renders alone, I used to be intrigued. “That’s a giant ask,” I bear in mind saying to Dave. “In the event that they pull that off, it could possibly be fairly first rate. There’s lots that might go mistaken, there, although.”

“Rather a lot that might go mistaken…” I stand by it. Sharp edges right here. Demise-defying angles there. Bold curves that cease on a sixpence and merge into one thing that appears prefer it would possibly take your eye out in case you have a look at it askance. This can be a large boy design that may solely be dealt with by a giant boy machining firm. And I’ve to say, Bohen discovered one.

Effectively-executed

That is the closest value-add to the Laventure I can level to. Each of those watches are expertly machined. I don’t say that frivolously. Whereas they don’t seem to be made in the identical place, I’ve a working data of each vegetation (which I can’t identify instantly due to many an NDA I’ve signed in my time), however they work to an analogous customary. I’d nonetheless give the sting right here to the fellows behind the Laventure case as a result of the portfolio of manufacturers that manufacture works with simply out-punches the checklist of collaborators Bohen’s manufacturing facility has in its locker. Nonetheless, this work is true up there.

Merely put, it is the form of product that speaks to its retail value. I might purchase many a watch at one-third of this value and be lower than one-fifth as glad as I’d be if I purchased this at full retail. The query for the viewers, nonetheless, is how broad is its enchantment? This watch is a palatable 43mm huge however a staggering 17.5mm thick. Whereas the 1,000m water resistance would possibly clarify that to some extent, it’s nonetheless an enormous timepiece. The bracelet is divine and the buckle — loudly signed as it’s  — is fantastically machined. The 12 o’clock crown means this watch sits higher than you would possibly count on on the wrist, however there’s a lot materials right here, it jogs my memory of a slimline PloProf on the wrist.

Weight-wise, nonetheless, it’s stunning. Through the use of a mix of metal and titanium within the case building, the wearability has been vastly improved.

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A query for the Fratelli

I’ve loved awaiting the arrival of this watch. Being intrigued for this lengthy was good for me. The Bohen didn’t disappoint me, and, in actual fact, jogged my memory of a model I used to like known as Clerc. It’s a model that peaked earlier than I had the means to purchase one in all its excellently-made watches, however one which I’d like to see extra corollaries of. Clerc was a comparatively short-lived mission, however one whose exit left a gap available in the market {that a} model like Bohen ought to intention to fill.

With the query of the product answered (in my thoughts, not less than — be happy to disagree with me from afar), I’ll flip my consideration to the communication technique. Will this mannequin spark the creativeness of these at whom it’s aimed? Will the press choose up on it and unfold the Good Information like wildfire as was the case with Laventure? What do you assume? What’s the will of the Fratelli? Does this mannequin look like a very good purchase to you, or is there one thing stopping you from hopping on board? In that case, tell us within the feedback beneath. Be taught extra about Bohen right here.

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