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Rightly or wrongly, when most individuals consider Rolex, they consider showy watches. I’d argue that a whole lot of the model’s fashions are subdued, and maybe the fame comes extra from the wearers than from the watches themselves. It’s what it’s, although. So, what occurs when one stumbles upon a very under-the-radar Rolex? Effectively, I occurred to just do that with an atypical model of the Datejust 16200, and I feel it’s phenomenal.
The Rolex Datejust is among the most recognizable watches on the earth. We’ve lined them extensively over the previous 12 months and, personally, I’ve been on an actual “DJ” kick recently. I’ve at all times preferred them, however they had been so commonplace that I usually ignored what I usually regarded as workplace watches. One thing modified, although, and I began to respect them an increasing number of. Plus, I researched them closely, and with every kind of scouring and chatting, I additionally started to beat my concern of shopping for a watch with an incorrect or defective dial.
Image a Datejust, if you’ll
So, if I requested you to call the archetypal Rolex Datejust, what could be your reply? I’m no clairvoyant, however I’ll hazard a guess that you just’d say that the watch has a fluted bezel and comes on a Jubilee bracelet. Dial types abound, however you would possibly consider one thing with an ornate texture, Roman numerals, and even some gold thrives. So, what if we stripped all of that away and created essentially the most “un-Datejust” instance ever? Enter this Datejust 16200.
One thing I actually like about older Rolex watches is that they continue to be wearable irrespective of their age. So long as they’ve been serviced, they by some means really feel bank-vault robust. Relying on the dial execution and situation, additionally they exude a timeless sense of favor. A superb instance of that is the Explorer 14270 that I purchased new in 1998. That watch nonetheless feels each bit as robust because it did on Day 1. It was that Explorer, its excessive degree of consolation, and its usability that led me to take a look at the Datejust 16200.
This Datejust 16200 is downright stealthy
Basically, one thing just like the Datejust 16200 is similar to an Explorer except for the date perform and the completely different dial. Within the early ‘90s, they even sported the identical fundamental clasp. I discover these “plain-bezel” Datejust fashions so intriguing as a result of they’re stealthy and form of buck the development versus the examples with extra ornate bezels. What I didn’t actually look after was an ornate dial within a extra fundamental case. Then, I came across this particular mannequin.
I used to be looking out on a well known vendor’s website, and amongst the Submariners, GMTs, Day-Dates, and different Rolex fashions, a really completely different form of watch peered again at me. It was a blue-dialed Datejust 16200, however the dial was so impossibly fundamental that I believed I used to be one thing like a 6694 Precision or a 1500 Date mannequin. However there it was, an early ‘90s Datejust with a blue sunburst dial, easy stick indexes, and a easy bezel. Topping all of it off was the proper remaining aspect — a matte-finished reference 78360 Oyster bracelet.
Why this watch has me so giddy…
Proper about now, you’re presumably sitting there questioning why I’m so enthusiastic about this rudimentary, even bland Rolex. Effectively, to place it merely, this Datejust 16200 pursuits me as a result of it’s a watch inside a line that has been boiled right down to its most simple parts. Due to that, I discover it extremely enticing. The truth is, it’s nearly, dare I say, fairly in its simplicity. Plus, ever since this complete pandemic factor began, I’ve come to understand snug, no-nonsense designs.
A lot of my latest classic Citizen acquisitions match that elemental description, and it’s why I proceed to espouse the virtues of watches just like the IWC Mark XII. So far as steering, take a look at the gathering of our workforce Godfather (that might be G2, aka Gerard). He’s not impulsive, however with items just like the Zenith Defy or the Grand Seiko SBGW235, he has added fantastic trendy examples of “easy watches.”
Easy, but refined particulars
Returning to our story… Wanting nearer at this Datejust 16200, simply because it’s easy doesn’t imply that it lacks particulars. As an early mannequin inside this collection (recognized for its sapphire crystal and the bulletproof 3135 computerized motion with a quick-set date), this piece has drilled lugs, stamped finish hyperlinks, a tritium dial, and tritium arms. Each a type of antiquated attributes, because it seems, ranks excessive on my checklist of needs. The dial is mesmerizing. It turns from blue to grey relying on lighting, and the small lume pips outdoors of every index remind us of a unique period for Rolex. Lastly, when seen from an angle, the utilized indexes are impossibly tall and extremely sharp. Implausible stuff certainly!
I hemmed and hawed about ordering this plain-Jane Datejust 16200, and I lastly pulled the set off after a month or so. The watch arrived, and sadly, it contained a small scratch on the dial. I beloved the watch, however I knew that the blemish would hang-out me. Saddened, I returned the watch and went on the hunt for an additional instance. Amazingly, I shortly discovered the one different an identical instance of this watch on the market utilizing my modest web sleuthing expertise. It additionally occurred to be within the EU, was equally priced, and got here with a bonus — field and papers. NUNC Orologi of Rome was nice to work with, and I respect the truth that we managed the transaction over a mixture of Italian and English.
The 36mm Oyster case epitomizes consolation
I stand by my countless conviction that the 36mm Oyster case varieties the premise for a number of the most snug watches round. This Datejust 16200 is not any exception. I simply sized the bracelet (why haven’t all different watch manufacturers moved to such a easy system between the hyperlinks?), moved the micro-adjust out a notch, and voilà! Perfection achieved! I all of a sudden had a brand new companion that felt an terrible lot like my Explorer. Now, although, after I look down upon my wrist, there’s a wealthy and vibrant dial staring again at me.
Another factors are value noting about this Datejust 16200. In comparison with a later ‘90s Explorer, the lugs are literally slimmer. I lined it up in opposition to an unpolished Datejust 16234 (it’s a household heirloom) and regardless of that being about 5 years newer, the lugs are related. The Explorer, then again, boasts thicker lugs and a wider bezel. The end result for the 16200 is a barely extra elegant watch with what seems to be a bigger dial.
Discovering a Datejust 16200 is simple, this dial is more durable
In the event you just like the Datejust 16200, the excellent news is that there are many them on the market on Chrono24. Discovering one with this actual dial configuration, although, appears a bit more durable. Datejust fashions from this period command between €5,000 and €7,000 relying on situation and completeness. As at all times, particulars corresponding to dial and case situation matter. Particularly, be sure that all of the lume pips exist and bear in mind that darker dials usually present discoloration.
Remaining ideas
To me, what makes this Datejust 16200 particular is the truth that it’s not “particular” in any respect. In your cash, you could want a bit extra sparkle or pizzazz. Fortunately, that degree of selection is out there, and that makes this mannequin line particular. In the event you determine to go down this path, deal with one in every of these watches effectively, and it is best to have a companion for all times that works in nearly each situation. All of the whereas, it manages to carry collectively a number of the greatest trendy and classic parts Rolex has to supply.
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