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In 2022, Grand Seiko celebrates the Fifty fifth anniversary of its well-known design language, generally known as the Grand Seiko Type. This explicit type got here to life in 1967 with the introduction of the 44GS case. This celebration requires a restricted version from the Japanese producer. Meet the Grand Seiko SBGJ255, the most recent Hello-Beat GMT addition to the model’s Heritage Assortment.
If this watch seems acquainted to you, there’s a great motive for that. I needed to look twice when the press launch got here in from Grand Seiko, because it seems lots just like the reference SBGJ201 that I purchased again in 2018. Moreover taking a better take a look at the brand new Grand Seiko SBGJ255 restricted version, I can even do a side-by-side comparability with its non-limited version counterpart in stainless-steel. There are undoubtedly some variations aside from using titanium as an alternative of stainless-steel.
Grand Seiko Heritage Assortment SBGJ255
However first issues first. The Grand Seiko Hello-Beat GMT SBGJ255 has a 40mm diameter case with the everyday Zaratsu-polished surfaces. It’s typically known as a 44GS case, however actually, it’s not similar to the unique 1967 44GS case. Subsequently, it’s higher to seek advice from it as a 44GS-style case. I needed to be taught that the laborious method, as I loosely referred to my very own SBGJ201 as a 44GS case. That resulted in some indignant feedback and a bunch of direct messages on Instagram telling me I used to be so unsuitable. There’s nothing unsuitable with a little bit of fanaticism, so I’m completely satisfied to be taught. From then on, I’ve referred to it as a 44GS-style case.
Grand Seiko Type
As I wrote within the introduction of this text, Grand Seiko refers to this design language because the “Grand Seiko Type” in English (although, curiously, the model calls it simply “Seiko Type” in Japanese). It is usually generally known as the “Grammar of Design”. The founding father of this design language is Taro Tanaka, who began his profession with Seiko in 1959. His floor guidelines for Grand Seiko’s design components have been first used for the 44GS case, which was produced within the Daini Seikosha manufacturing unit in 1967. There are principally three rules to this design: 1) When attainable, surfaces must be flat. 2) The flat surfaces must be as extensive as attainable. 3) The floor must be freed from distortion.
Sallaz sprucing machines
To make sure the case has distortion-free surfaces, the Sallaz sprucing machines come into play. The mirror blade-polishing method achieved by these machines is known as the well-known Zaratsu sprucing. The phrase “Zaratsu” is principally the Japanese phonetic illustration of the identify Sallaz, the maker of the sprucing machines that Grand Seiko makes use of.
The titanium 44GS-style case
The 44GS-style case used for the SBGJ255 (and for varied different Grand Seiko watches) is one thing actually distinctive. For me, it was the rationale to purchase my Grand Seiko SBGJ201 after I had been considering shopping for a Grand Seiko SBGA211 “Snowflake” for fairly some time. Now, titanium is just not my favourite materials for a watch, however even when the SBGJ201 had been titanium, I’d have most popular it over the Snowflake. That’s simply due to that lovely 44GS-style case design.
The case of the SBGJ255 has the identical dimensions because the SBGJ201 — a diameter of precisely 40mm, a thickness of 14mm, and a lug-to-lug dimension of 46.2mm. What’s completely different, after all, is the burden. It solely weighs 107 grams, whereas the metal SBGJ201 has a weight of 159 grams, each with all hyperlinks put in within the bracelet. That’s fairly a discount!
The Grand Seiko SBGJ255 on a bracelet, my SBGJ201 on a strap
Grand Seiko SBGJ255 dial
The dial is all the time one of many fundamental sights of a Grand Seiko, or not less than it’s to many people Grand Seiko fanatics. And that’s additionally the case for the brand new SBGJ255. Whereas the dial of the SBGJ201 “Mt. Iwate” doesn’t require a lot effort to acknowledge the feel, the motif on the SBGJ255 is a bit more durable to see. Let me clarify. In a number of the pictures, the dial of the SBGJ255 simply seems silvery-white, with no identifiable motif at first look. However upon nearer inspection, you will note that it seems lots just like the European Restricted Version that Grand Seiko launched a number of months in the past, the SBGW267 that I discussed on this article.
The dial is impressed by shōji, a moveable paper display that’s positioned the place it might diffuse gentle to most inventive impact. Though I additionally have to convey the SBGJ201 a bit nearer to my eyes to totally benefit from the Mt. Iwate texture, I can nonetheless see there’s a motif on the dial once I maintain it a bit additional away. In comparison with the SBGJ201 “Mt. Iwate”, the dial of the SBGJ255 is a little more colourful with its blue GS emblem, and it seems nice.
Lumed palms and hour markers!
What I discovered fascinating in regards to the SBGJ255 is that the palms and dial have an software of lume. As you in all probability know, Grand Seiko applies LumiBrite, its personal luminescent combine, to the palms and indexes. I by no means missed lume on my Grand Seiko SBGJ201, because the superbly polished palms and hour markers, with a number of aspects, catch even the slightest bit of sunshine. This allows you to inform the time in low-light environments.
For this new restricted version reference, Grand Seiko determined it was time to lume up. In my view, it didn’t smash the design of the palms or the dial in any respect. It’s simply completely different.
Caliber 9S86
Contained in the SBGJ255, identical to the SBG201, is Grand Seiko’s 9S86 motion. It’s a hi-beat caliber with a actual GMT operate, which means you independently set the hour hand to the native time zone. The GMT hand will simply rotate accordingly while you set the time (minutes, hours, and so on). It’s a stunning motion, ticking at 36,000vph, displaying you a easily gliding seconds hand on the dial. For this restricted version SBGJ255, the rotor has obtained a particular ornament. Or, extra precisely, Grand Seiko put in a totally completely different rotor.
The oscillating weight obtained a particular therapy to get this gold tone. It’s an anodic oxidation course of that leads to the steel getting an oxide movie. In line with Grand Seiko, titanium oxide movie generates colour in response to the sunshine refraction index. By various the thickness of this movie, you’ll be able to produce completely different colours. It seems neat, though it does block the view of the mechanical motion. By way of the skeletonized rotor, you’ll be able to see elements of the adorned caliber 9S86 although.
The bracelet
The Grand Seiko bracelet on this Fifty fifth-anniversary restricted version is much like the stainless-steel ones used for a lot of different GS watches. It’s sturdy, comfy, and has a folding clasp with launch pushers. I all the time thought I wasn’t a fan of the polished intermediate hyperlinks, however after carrying the brand new vary of Grand Seiko watches just like the White Birch and SLA007, for instance, I found that I miss a little bit of that shine on these bracelets.
However, I’d undoubtedly put on this new Grand Seiko on a strap, as I do mine. In my view, that helps the 44GS-style case develop into extra obvious and the star of the present on the wrist. When worn on a bracelet, the watch and bracelet develop into one, so to talk. However when worn on a strap, there’s no escape from seeing the gorgeous surfaces of the 44GS-style case.
However that’s, after all, one thing it’s good to determine for your self. And even when the strap was an non-compulsory characteristic, I’d go for the bracelet model anyway and purchase a separate (customized) strap for it.
Remaining ideas
Restricted to solely 1200 items, the SBGJ255 will in all probability not be round for very lengthy. It’ll develop into obtainable as of January 2022, which is both beginning tomorrow or has already began while you learn this. It has a retail value of €8,500 / $8,500 USD. Using Grand Seiko’s particular high-intensity titanium, with a scratch-resistant and corrosion-free end, and the particular rotor are partly liable for the rise in value in comparison with the €6,500 / $ 6,300 USD retail price of the SBGJ201.
The 44GS-style case design is one thing value celebrating for certain, as it’s — once more for my part — one of the crucial stunning case shapes ever made. It’s extremely robust to {photograph} and even on the wrist, I discover it typically laborious to “seize” it. That can also be a motive why I’ve put it on a strap, to only spotlight the magnificent work by the aforementioned Taro Tanaka. I hope Grand Seiko will hold utilizing this case in lots of extra fashions to return in order that there might be many extra stunning watches to select from.
Discover extra data on the Grand Seiko web site.
Observe me on Instagram @rjbroer
| Model | Grand Seiko |
| Mannequin | Heritage Assortment “Fifty fifth Anniversary” |
| Reference | SBGJ255 |
| Dial | Silvery-white with particular motif |
Case Materials
Excessive depth titanium (40% lighter than metal)
Lug-to-lug: 46.2mm.
Thickness: 14mm.
Jewels: 37.
Frequency: 36,000vph.
Energy Reserve: 55 hours.
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