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Precisely 50 years in the past right this moment in Basel, Switzerland, Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak. You may learn the background on the unique Royal Oak 5402 right here, in addition to all fashions that succeeded it up until right this moment’s Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202.
What higher technique to have fun an anniversary with a really particular watch? Meet the Royal Oak 16202 in pink gold, often known as the 16202OR.OO.1240OR.01. We already introduced this new reference final January because the worthy successor of the 15202 in rose gold. However for this big day, we go hands-on with this magnificence from Audemars Piguet.
Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202
This 39mm Royal Oak “Jumbo”, or Further-Skinny, marks the fiftieth anniversary of the icon designed by Gérald Genta. Audemars Piguet determined to create a particular rotor for this yr’s Royal Oak fashions indicating the fiftieth anniversary of the watch. However AP will solely produce these rotors for one yr, placing a excessive customary in place for its weight-mass ornament. So subsequent yr, the 16202 will nonetheless be there, however with out this particular ornamental rotor.
Solely 8.1mm in top
Homecoming
A few of you may keep in mind — if you happen to’ve been following us for some time — that I used to personal the Royal Oak “Jumbo” reference 15202. I offered it just a few years in the past (no regrets, although) to fund one thing else. However I vividly keep in mind sporting the 15202 for a few years. It was once my each day beater for a very long time, as snobbish as which will sound. Issues seemed completely different again then (2009–2019), because the demand for these watches wasn’t extremely excessive. Costs have been even decrease than what you’d pay for a Rolex Datejust as of late.
My, how issues can change in such a comparatively brief period of time! Anyway, the Royal Oak “Jumbo” I wore again then didn’t look or put on very in another way from the brand new 16202. Carrying this new mannequin felt a bit like coming house, however with one important distinction. The 16202 I’ve been sporting for this text is manufactured from gold. Sure, gold, child! The heft is noticeably completely different than that of the metal model. Apart from that, the wrist presence is just superb.
The 16202OR
The 18K pink gold model has this smoked slate-gray dial that includes the well-known “Petite Tapisserie” motif. This was one thing that was outsourced on the model I used to personal. Nevertheless, since 2012 or so, Audemars Piguet has introduced the craftsmanship and manufacturing of those dials again in-house. That very same yr, AP additionally moved its emblem to the 6-o’clock place. Earlier than that, and because the ’80s, it had sat at 12 o’clock.
The smoked dial appears to be like so gorgeous with the pink gold, I really feel it’s one of many most important points of interest of this model for me. One other model with a smoked dial is the yellow gold 16202BA, in addition to the platinum 16202PT with a smoked inexperienced dial. The latter comes with out the enduring “Petite Tapisserie” motif, although. For me, it’s between the pink gold and the yellow gold variations. Truthfully, I’d have a tough time selecting which I’d put on extra. That mentioned, I don’t must as a result of there’s this pink gold 16202OR in entrance of me. It’s the model that AP had accessible for our evaluation, so fortunately, that makes issues straightforward.
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From 15300 to 15202
By way of dimensions, not a lot has modified. The Royal Oak “Jumbo” ref. 16202 has the identical previous 39mm diameter and measures solely 8mm in top. What modified, nonetheless, is what received me into shopping for the 15202 within the first place — the motion.
Earlier than I purchased the Royal Oak 15202, I had owned the reference 15300. This Royal Oak mannequin, additionally 39mm, got here out in 2005 and housed the AP in-house caliber 3120. That watch had a bit extra physique, a thicker bracelet, and a double-folding clasp. In comparison with the 15202, although the diameter was equal, it was a little bit of a Royal Oak on steroids (or sugar) — a bit fats. However I preferred it, and I had it for a couple of yr or two, max. Trying on the 15202, nonetheless, I spotted there’s just one Royal Oak for me. It was the “Jumbo” with its super-slim case. And that case was solely potential as a result of extra-thin (3.05mm) motion.
Caliber 2121
Inside the unique “Jumbo” was caliber 2121. It was primarily based on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s caliber 920 and used because the unique Royal Oak reference 5402. Vacheron Constantin additionally used it for its mannequin 222, and Patek Philippe did for the primary Nautilus reference 3700/1A. Jaeger-LeCoultre itself by no means used it, and sooner or later, the license to fabricate the motion was transferred to Audemars Piguet. To make a protracted story brief, the caliber 2121 was one of many most important causes for me to “improve” to the Royal Oak “Jumbo”. Not solely as a result of it made the case thinner than the one on the Royal Oak reference 15300, but additionally as a result of I felt that the caliber 2121 was probably the most stunning self-winding actions on the market.
Caliber 7121 replaces 2121
As a substitute of utilizing ball bearings, the rotor glides on a rail, and it has a variable-inertia Gyromax steadiness wheel. And although, technically, Patek Philippe owns the rights to the Gyromax title, I’ll use the phrase anyway, because it’s the very same building. By adjusting the eight lots situated on high of the wheel, a watchmaker can extra precisely regulate the wheel’s steadiness. What I didn’t know till I visited the Audemars Piguet manufacture just a few years in the past was that this motion was hand-finished, in contrast to the caliber 3120.
Caliber 7121
Anyway, the caliber 2121 is not. The brand new Royal Oak 16202 reference makes use of the 7121. It has a better frequency than its predecessor (28,800vph as an alternative of 21,600vph), and a 55-hour energy reserve as an alternative of 40 hours. To be trustworthy, I don’t care an excessive amount of about these numbers. Relatively, what I by no means preferred in regards to the earlier motion was the shortage of a quick-set date. It was extremely annoying, however fortunately, Audemars Piguet mounted that with this new 7121 motion. The ball bearings are again for the rotor, although, and the motion’s thickness has elevated from 3.05mm to three.2mm. In response to Audemars Piguet, the introduction of caliber 7121 marks a brand new technology of actions. I assume meaning it will likely be the bottom for future watches with problems.
That bracelet is simply superior
Identical to its predecessor(s), the built-in bracelet is razor-sharp in the case of ending, however wears extremely snug. There are just a few bracelets that come even near the extent of consolation that AP provides with the Royal Oak bracelet. Vacheron’s 222 bracelet that was launched simply the opposite week in Geneva does really feel good, however I’d prefer to spend some extra time with it to give you a definitive reply. Patek’s Nautilus bracelet is one other bracelet that comes shut, however the Royal Oak bracelet does the “built-in” job a bit higher. The double-folding clasp shouldn’t be one thing I choose over the one which was used pre-2012, however it does the job correctly and feels extra strong than the single-folding clasp.
The 16202 “Jumbo” on the wrist
Placing the Royal Oak “Jumbo” 16202 in your wrist, particularly in gold, is one thing particular. It’s a sensation that’s troublesome to explain in phrases, and if potential, I urge you to go to an AP Home and provides it a strive your self. It’s a watch that must be tried before you purchase one. That mentioned, even in gold, I discover it an easy watch to put on with its modest dimensions and skinny (8.1mm) case.
And also you don’t must be nervous about scratching the bracelet or case, as a result of scratches will seem ultimately anyway. You simply must be ready to stay with that truth. In the long run, I feel scratches give character and present you put on and benefit from the Royal Oak.
Value and availability of the 16202
The CHF 63,100 price ticket places me again on the bottom instantly. I’ll by no means spend this a lot on a watch, even when my watch price range allowed it. Sure, I might dump some items to get the job finished, however there’s this internal voice that all the time tries to motive with me. The metal model although, which retails for about half of this quantity, might be one thing that works for me. I believed I didn’t miss my Royal Oak 15202, however sporting this 16202 certainly put some doubt in my thoughts. Apart from the value tag on these Royal Oak watches these days, it’s the shortage of availability that comes into play as effectively. Oh effectively… maybe someday. Anyway, pleased birthday, Royal Oak! And right here’s to many extra!
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