Do I want the brand new AP Royal Oak “Jumbo”? Effectively, the watch is a vital a part of horological historical past. And the brand new iteration that celebrates fifty years of the Royal Oak positive is a stunner. However, if I’m trustworthy, the one watch that impressed me essentially the most of all of the 50th Anniversary fashions this 12 months was the reference 15550ST.OO.1356ST.04. It’s the pleasant, gentle blue, 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding. And it’s the watch that tells me there’s extra to the Royal Oak than the “Jumbo”.
By no means decide a e book by its cowl, and by no means decide a watch by its dial. Proper? Effectively, truly, if it’s a coffee-table e book, the photographic qualities of the quilt are fairly related. And how are you going to not decide a watch by its dial? The dial is the face of the watch, each actually and figuratively, and it’s what you have a look at first and most frequently. The very first thing that struck me after I first noticed the 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding 50th Anniversary (€23,500) was the sunshine blue dial. I’ve written in regards to the watch earlier than, and it was truly the model with the Bleu Nuit dial that I believed reveals essentially the most potential again then. That’s as a result of that blue shade — the unique night-blue dial colour of the Royal Oak developed by well-known dial-maker Stern Frères — together with the prominently textured Tapisserie sample bestows the watch with a “Jumbo”-like confidence and presence.
There’s extra to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak than the “Jumbo” — Please meet its 37mm “little brother”
Nice watch, that Bleu Nuit model. It truly is. It’s a really wearable, very all-round, very properly developed model of the Genta-designed Royal Oak. However the extra I have a look at it now, the extra I get the sensation that additionally it is pretending to be one thing it’s not. And that may be a “Jumbo”. The sunshine blue model doesn’t have interaction in this sort of roleplay. Its 37 × 9mm case is on the small aspect, however due to its form, it has the presence of a 40mm watch. And that’s regardless of its slimness, which is achieved by integrating the case again additional into the case itself. In the long run, it’s all about proportions, shapes, the bracelet, ending, and colours. It’s not nearly chilly numbers with regards to wrist presence.
In the case of wrist presence, the dial is a significant component. The Grande Tapisserie dial capabilities as a dynamic gentle reflector. And never solely does it make this Royal Oak shine, nevertheless it additionally dynamically produces quite a few blue shades to maintain issues visually entertaining.
The interplay of parts
There’s extra to say in regards to the dial. Audemars Piguet made some small however important adjustments. The minute observe, as an example, now sits on the Tapisserie itself and is now not on a flange across the dial. Mix that with white gold utilized hour-markers and Royal Oak arms with luminescent filling, and you’ve got one severely balanced, vibrant, and enticing dial composition.
The colours, textures, and finishes work together with one another, making a ton of charisma for such a modestly sized watch.
What a good-looking/fairly face to take a look at! And you already know what additionally helps to benefit from that handsome face? The truth that the beveled surfaces of the watch at the moment are bigger. This leads to a extra seen distinction between polished and brushed surfaces. The colours, textures, and finishes work together with one another, creating tons of charisma for such a modestly sized watch.
Sturdy and suave on the similar time
And I’m not performed but. The up to date bracelet makes the 37mm Royal Oak extra sturdy, sturdy, and opulent. It additionally makes it extremely easy and suave. The primary 4 hyperlinks of the bracelet at the moment are extra trapezoidal, with a larger taper for a extra elegant look. And what additionally helps in making a smoother, extra subtle look is the truth that the bracelet is thinner and lighter than the earlier model.
A particular “50 Years” rotor only for 2022
An automated motion made for AP by Vaucher replaces the outdated 3Hz caliber 3120. This new, thinner motion, generally known as caliber 5900, beats at 4Hz with 60 hours of energy reserve. It ticks away inside a 50m water resistant case outfitted with a sapphire case again. What’s most hanging, after all, is the particular “50 Years” rotor. Audemars Piguet will solely use this rotor for one 12 months. Subsequent 12 months, when the Royal Oak turns 51, a typical rotor will probably be fitted to all the Royal Oak fashions. So, this watch itself shouldn’t be restricted, however the rotor is. Who would have thought that limited-edition rotors would turn into a factor?
Anyway, even with out the celebratory rotor, the 37mm Royal Oak Selfwinding in gentle blue is a really enticing, recent, and up to date tackle the basic RO theme. Get one whilst you can.
However are you able to? I’m afraid all the jubilee fashions within the new RO assortment will probably be just about unobtainable regardless of the premium pricing — permit me to remind you that the 37mm metal RO prices €23,500. That’s the merciless actuality we now have to take care of within the 2022 watch world.
For extra info on all of the variations within the 2022 Audemars Piguet Royal Oak household, please go to the model’s official web site.
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