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Parmigiani Fleurier isn’t all in regards to the sell-out Tonda PF. For sure, the PF inaugurated a brand new period for the Swiss unbiased model final yr to rave evaluations. To the broader market, the flagship assortment might appear to be an in a single day sensation. The reality is, its aesthetic evolution has so much to thank the Tonda GT for. Having debuted a yr prior in 2020, the Tonda GT elevated the traditional Tonda appears to be like into a brand new collection of sports-luxe watches. And one of the best half is that the Tonda GT has introduced alongside an annual calendar chronograph. Annual calendar chronographs are few and much between. The most recent Tonda GT Chronograph Metal fashions that includes a coveted annual calendar with grey and pink panda dials now be a part of that unique membership.
A 25-year evolution
As evident within the identify, the Tonda GT (Gran Turismo) infuses additional racing-fueled oomph with its sportier and heftier type. To attain that, Parmigiani solicited veteran watch designer Dino Modolo for his grasp stroke on the primary run of the Tonda GT. Finest recognized for co-creating Vacheron Constantin’s Abroad, Modolo derived the brand new GT Chronograph from the GPHG 2016 award-winning Tonda Chronor and refreshed a few of Parmigiani’s hallmarks. This Tonda GT case design built-in with a bracelet culminated within the success of the Tonda PF, orchestrated by new CEO Guido Terreni (of Bvlgari Octo Finissimo fame).
Purple and grey pandas
For the newest Tonda GT Chronograph, previously often known as the Tondagraphe, we’ve got two coloration variants in stainless-steel. Characterizing the panda face and the rubber strap are oxblood pink and medium grey tones. The large date and the tri-register structure are defining options in opposition to the silverish-white dial. A dual-aperture shows the date beneath the Parmigiani Fleurier wordmark at 12 o’clock. The 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers sit at 9 and 6 o’clock respectively. On the proper is the small seconds indicator, which neatly makes use of each ends of the hand to run by way of 60 seconds alongside two semi-circular tracks. It thus leaves room for the month show on the underside half of the disc. Now, cue the best function that will get me giddy about this watch — the annual calendar.
Annual calendar chronograph
The annual calendar is the adopted little brother of the perpetual calendar, so to talk. This excessive complication was invented solely in 1996 by a Swiss engineering pupil and commercialized by none aside from Patek Philippe, who created the primary perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1925. Forfeiting the intricacy and price ticket of a grand complication, the annual calendar, because the identify denotes, requires you to regulate the date yearly. The date counts by way of the lengthy and brief months of a yr till the tip of February. Which means you solely want to vary the date ahead yearly on March 1st.
A complication for on a regular basis use
Personally, I by no means bear in mind which months are lengthy and which of them are brief. However who makes use of the Georgian calendar wouldn’t know that February is the exception? That explains why I discover the Breguet Quantième Rétrograde’s calendar operate outdated in such a high-spec creation. I would definitely be pleased to make an annual adjustment, particularly if that complication makes the worth extra accessible than a perpetual calendar. That mentioned, I wouldn’t precisely name an annual calendar chronograph “reasonably priced”. Annual calendar chronographs are comparatively scarce and sometimes provided on the excessive finish. Parmigiani has made a beautiful providing with its Tonda GT Annual Calendar Chronograph in a chrome steel case.
Exemplary craftsmanship
The Tonda GT case measures 42mm in diameter and 13.7mm in peak to accommodate the modular chronograph motion aspect. It gives 100 meters of water resistance and incorporates a stepped bezel with a sophisticated chamfer and the model’s signature knurled edge. The case surfaces alternate between mirror and satin finishes, whereas the crown and teardrop pushers are polished. Past the coloured sub-dials that type the panda face, the remainder of the dial performs with complementary options and contrasting textures.
The hand-applied indexes are handled with a black luminescent coating to match the black date and month wheels. The rhodium-plated skeletonized arms and indexes sit harmoniously on prime of the triangular-hobnail guilloché dial and the grooved chapter ring. Topping all of it off is an ARunic sapphire crystal, which harnesses probably the most superior know-how to supply colorless double-sided anti-reflection.
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A particular engine
Powering the Tonda GT Annual Calendar is the manufacture caliber PF034, produced by Parmigiani’s sister firm Vaucher. When you already know that Vaucher provides most of Richard Mille’s chronographs, together with the annual calendar chronograph engine, you may admire the extent of horological finesse that we’ve got right here. The PF034 is a modular motion that includes 443 parts, amongst them, a sandblasted 22K rose gold oscillating weight. The ending is enough for this value stage to maintain the supply engaging. This self-winding mechanism operates at a frequency of 28,800vph (4Hz) and gives a 45-hour energy reserve.
A lovely bundle
The Tonda GT Annual Calendar Chronograph is keenly priced at CHF 19,400 on a rubber strap. The strap is high-grade and comfy, and it lends a punchier fashion to the sports activities watch. And for those who desire to be extra delicate, the mannequin additionally is available in a black model with each rubber strap and stainless-steel bracelet choices.
The worth of this metal mannequin is compelling relative to what’s in the marketplace, and for the place Parmigiani is heading on this new period. It might be really easy to miss this spectacular providing amidst the craze over the Tonda PF. On prime of that, the Tonda GT Chronograph additionally is available in a rose gold mannequin outfitted with a brilliant engine that deserves its personal column inches. So I will probably be again with a second article that includes these Tonda GT Chronographs very quickly.
For now, go to Parmigiani’s Fleurier’s web site for extra particulars.
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