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G. Gerlach’s watches have at all times been an intriguing curiosity within the sea of small, impartial manufacturers. These designs are distinctive and attention-grabbing (if not at all times to my private style), and their worth is top-notch, however what really units them aside is their model’s dedication to Polish design and manufacturing. The Enigma II is among the extra conservative designs within the lineup, however it has loads of persona and a compelling story to inform.
G. Gerlach isn’t an eponymous model named for its founder, as tends to be the case for therefore many. As an alternative, the model was named in honor of Polish industrialist Gustaw Gerlach, who created a spread of measuring instruments and gear all through the latter half of the nineteenth century and into the twentieth century. Now, to know why a watch model would select to call itself after a Polish industrialist, it is advisable know a bit extra about Poland’s historical past in design and manufacturing. Poland is among the largest producers in Europe, producing all the things from automobiles to airplanes to televisions. But, regardless of their manufacturing prowess, Poland spends comparatively little on analysis and improvement, leading to what the model sees as a scarcity of funding in innovation. As such, the G. Gerlach model was resurrected in an effort to present an outlet for Polish design and technical innovation — an avenue for bringing watches Made in Poland to life and re-establishing home-grown funding in innovation.
G. Gerlach makes a variety of watches, together with all the things from pilot and automotive watches to divers. What all of them have in frequent, nonetheless, is an express hyperlink to Poland’s wealthy heritage and an eminently reasonably priced worth level. Within the case of the Enigma II, G. Gerlach has centered on showcasing Poland’s position in breaking the Nazi’s cipher machine, Enigma. Whereas Alan Turing and the sensible minds at Bletchley Park are inclined to obtain all of the reward for breaking Enigma, three Polish cryptologists, Marian Rejewski, Jerzy Różycki, and Henryk Zygalski, had been instrumental within the effort, reworking the follow of cryptography from one primarily based on linguistics to at least one that relied closely on arithmetic. When the staff at Bletchley Park discovered of the advances made by the Polish Cypher Bureau, the British rapidly adopted their strategy, in the end permitting Turing and his staff to crack Enigma. Sadly, as Poland fell throughout the struggle and was later sealed behind the Iron Curtain, Rejewski, Różycki, and Zygalski’s contributions had been largely misplaced to historical past. Certain, it’s a small factor, however seeing the names of those three Polish heroes (truthfully, are you able to consider a greater phrase to explain them?) on the caseback is a pleasant solution to honor their legacy. I’d be hard-pressed to think about a extra deserving trio. For me, these hyperlinks to the previous and the model’s pleasure within the nation’s historical past are among the issues that make Gerlach watches so charming.
Let’s transfer from the previous to the current and get to the watch itself. The Enigma II is housed in a 43mm chrome steel cushion case. Regardless of the comparatively massive case diameter, the brief, sloping lugs and cushion case permit the watch to put on extra compactly than the spec sheet may recommend. Don’t get me mistaken, it seems to be each bit the 43mm diver when on my 6.75” wrist, however the form of the watch ought to put on comfortably on most wrists — it sits properly on mine with out flopping or overhanging. The traces of the case are tender all through, together with a delicate step on the case that demarcates the lugs. Transferring to the aspect of the case, there’s a clean sweep of the midcase that’s largely chargeable for the watch’s consolation. Flipping the watch over, the strong caseback has a classy engraving of damaged Enigma textual content. The engraved specs on the caseback are all written in Polish. Normally, I’m detached to casebacks, however I really like the main points on the Enigma II. Ending off the case is a signed, outsized crown that’s straightforward to grip and switch. The case is well-executed and the ending is strong, particularly when contemplating the value. The truth that the watch is made in Poland makes it simply that significantly better.
One in all my favourite parts on this watch is the excessive distinction between the white dial and black sapphire bezel. As a bonus, the bezel markers are totally lumed. This was a pleasant shock, as I used to be initially disenchanted by the dearth of lume pip. That stated, the “60” in lieu of a lume pip takes a little bit of getting used to and is a component that I’m nonetheless unsure I really like. It’s a distinctive contact, so I’ll take it. In contrast to the brushed end on the case, the 120-click bezel has a excessive polish end that’s moderately tough to grip, particularly because the bezel is barely inset from the case (moderately than overhanging) and the motion is sort of agency. It’s not a significant difficulty, however value noting, particularly in the event you plan to take the Enigma diving.
The Enigma II is available in two dial variations, black and white. White dial divers appear to be having their second, with the acute recognition (hype) of the white dial Omega Seamaster Skilled 300m and the Rolex “Polar” Explorer II. Certain, the latter’s not a dive watch, per se, however I’d be remiss to not point out it given the orange pops on a white dial. Now, the Seamaster and Explorer II are greater than an order of magnitude costlier than the Enigma, so to some extent comparisons are unfair. Nevertheless, there’s one design ingredient that I want the Enigma had adopted – the black surrounds on the arms and markers that make the Seamaster and Explorer II absurdly legible. Sadly, the polished utilized markers and polished arms, whereas engaging, do the Enigma no favors within the legibility division. It’s not horrible, however it may well take your eyes a second to regulate and browse the time in low gentle. My level is simply that an Enigma III with black markers and arms could be wonderful…
One ingredient that’s straightforward to miss, however showcases the model’s consideration to the little particulars is the rehaut. Most watches use a easy brushed rehaut to transition between the dial and crystal, however G. Gerlach adopted a white rehaut with orange hashes to match the dial accents. You won’t discover the rehaut by trying on the watch straight on, however as quickly as you view the dial at an angle, these orange hashes pop. It’s somewhat contact that makes an enormous distinction.
The watch I’m reviewing got here mounted on a thick black leather-based strap with distinction white stitching. It’s snug and works tremendous with the watch, however I discovered a black Erika’s Originals strap to be my favourite mixture. That stated, a rubber isofrane-style strap or NATO-style strap would even be wonderful choices.
Powering the Enigma II is the Seiko NH36 computerized motion — equal to the 4R36 motion present in Seiko’s self-branded watches. Other than hours/minutes/seconds performance, the NH36 additionally options day and date capabilities, 24 jewels, and a 41-hour energy reserve. It’s a high quality motion, particularly at this worth level, however the comparatively sluggish beat charge of 21.6kph might annoy these used to the smoother sweep of say an ETA 2824 or Miyota 9015. Accuracy is a little bit of a roll of the system, with static accuracy of -20 to +40 seconds/day. My loaner piece was effectively inside spec, so definitely no points with the motion from my perspective.
We’re residing in a growth time for funds divers. The choices out there for dive watches within the $300-$500 vary are manifold: Seiko, Orient, Citizen, Zelos, Borealis, Spinnaker, Deep Blue, Raven…simply to call just a few off the highest of my head. Whereas specs are definitely essential, for me it comes all the way down to the design and the story behind the watch. Whereas we’re used to manufacturers making a design then manufacturing a narrative after the very fact, G. Gerlach has flipped the script. Their objective is to inform the world about Poland’s wealthy historical past, whereas selling Polish design and manufacturing — they simply occur to make use of watches as a medium. The G. Gerlach Enigma II is available in at 1,699 PLN (equal to roughly $440 USD) on rubber or leather-based strap, with a mesh bracelet possibility out there for an additional ~$28 USD. For extra data on the Enigma II you’ll want to go to the model’s web site.
Vital Information
>Model: G. Gerlach
>Mannequin: Enigma II
>Value: ~$440 USD
>Dimension: 43mm-wide, 13mm-tall, 49mm lug-to-lug
>When reviewer would personally put on it: As a enjoyable summer season watch.
>Pal we’d suggest it to first: Somebody on the lookout for an reasonably priced white-dial diver with an attention-grabbing story to inform.
>Greatest attribute of watch: Nice colour scheme.
>Worst attribute of watch: Bezel is tough to grip and tough to show.
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