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As a part of Watches & Wonders 2021, H. Moser & Cie launched a pair of Endeavour Tourbillon Idea watches with Tiger’s Eye stone dials. A considerably old-school materials (that isn’t very straightforward to supply), Tiger’s Eye is a uniquely applicable materials for a model like Moser to make use of in such a particular piece. I spent a while with the crimson gold mannequin with the deep crimson Ox’s Eye dial, although there may be additionally a white gold variant with a blue Falcon’s Eye dial. Restricted to 50 items every, these are positively aimed toward a really particular sort of purchaser that appreciates and understands simply what Moser is doing.
A couple of weeks in the past, I learn one other article on this watch that repeatedly claimed that you could’t inform the time on this watch, which is solely not true. Like Moser’s different idea dial watches, there are not any markers on the dial, however the hour and minutes fingers are there and legible. I’ve a Moser idea dial of my very own, and I can, certainly, inform what time it’s.
Anyway, the Endeavour Tourbillon Idea Tiger’s Eye is yet one more testomony to Moser’s mastery of frivolously (and I imply that in the easiest way) stunning watch design. My thoughts instantly went to some classic gold Piaget and Rolex watches that used Tiger’s Eye dials, nevertheless it appears the stone went out of trend after the 80s and 90s. There have been some latest watches that make the most of Tiger’s Eye, with a Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso from a few years again coming to thoughts. Total, although, there hasn’t been a lot in the way in which of those stone dials, and I hope Moser begins a pattern right here as a result of I like them. Possibly a non-tourbillon mannequin sooner or later?
A microcrystalline quartz, Tiger’s Eye has a fibrous end that glimmers and divulges itself in several methods with nearly any motion or change in lighting. That is form of like a play on Moser’s fumé dials that by no means seem precisely the identical at completely different glances. I assume that the blue Falcon’s Eye mannequin can be extra standard than the Ox’s Eye (“standard” being adjusted for a restricted version of fifty items, every priced as a lot as a Land Cruiser) however there’s something concerning the heat horizontal ribbons of various lighter and darker shades of crimson towards the crimson gold case that basically give the Ox’s Eye some distinctive soul.
The one-minute flying tourbillon with in-house double hairspring (that is fairly uncommon) at 6 o’clock is as drool-worthy because the dial, which, in tandem, make for a very distinctive horological bauble. Would an uninterrupted dial (sans tourbillon) present a extra cohesive showcase for the Tiger’s Eye? Certain, however I’ve a sense that the effort and time it takes to supply these stones is, partly, underwritten by the worth premium afforded by a tourbillon. Additionally, past the identify of the stone, I suppose “Tiger’s Eye” subtly alludes to the tourbillon.
Turning the watch over reveals the HMC 804 motion, which is spectacular sufficient even with out the tourbillon. You may see the ceramic bearings on the tourbillon in addition to the rotor, with the profit being that they don’t require lubrication (which means extra time between servicing). There are black polished finishes all through, in addition to the model’s identifiable double-crested Moser stripes and an 18k crimson gold rotor. This being considered one of Moser’s extra high-end watches, you’ll additionally see a gold chaton secured in place by three screws slightly below the textual content studying “Switzerland.” The HMC 804 operates at 21,600 vph and has a minimal energy reserve of 72-hours.
The case of the Endeavour Tourbillon Idea Tiger’s Eye is finished in 18k crimson gold and measures 40mm-wide, 47.1mm lug-to-lug, and 11.2mm-thick. This can be a gown watch, by and thru, with the 30M of water resistance to again it up, so attempt to not get it moist. Should you’ve by no means held an Endeavour within the metallic, I extremely counsel you accomplish that. With the finely scalloped and polished sections on the case band contrasting with the brushed case, the Endeavour has some of the enticing gown watch circumstances on the market.
The brooding crimson stripes of the Ox’s Eye dial are completely contrasted with the crimson gold case. The whole lot is smart and comes collectively naturally (although actually not effortlessly) in a good looking manner. The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Idea Tourbillon Tiger’s Eye is restricted to 50 items in every of the 2 dial variants and is priced at $75,900. You may be taught extra at h-moser.com.
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